The Siam Bangkok: An Oasis of Serenity in Thailand’s Capital City

https://www.moretimetotravel.com/the-siam-bangkok-an-oasis-of-serenity-in-thailands-capital-city/

Thailand has experienced a 400-500% surge in hotel bookings over last year due, in no small part, to what has been dubbed “The White Lotus Effect.”  Bangkok was one of the locations where filming  the third season of the award-winning HBO original series took place.

As we touched down at Suvarnabhumi Airport, I felt a rush of excitement. I was returning to Bangkok, Thailand’s maddening (in a good way) modern capital city. Here, ancient traditions blend seamlessly with modernity in a city where 11 million souls work, live and play.

Returning to Bangkok also meant returning to one of our all-time favorite hotels—The Siam Bangkok, a true sanctuary nestled along the Chao Phraya River. Arriving at The Siam is like stepping into a peaceful, beautiful world apart. 

As we entered the hotel’s Art Deco-inspired lobby, we were greeted by our personal butler, Khem, whose warm smile and impeccable attention to detail would shape our stay. After a swift check-in (accompanied by a refreshing welcome beverage and cold towel), we were escorted to our villa, a blend of colonial charm and Thai heritage. 

Our suite included antique furnishings, high ceilings, our own private plunge pool, a small courtyard, and a sunbathing roof area (up a circular metal staircase). The Siam is an amazing hotel replete with art collections, restaurants, a unique bar, a curio shop, an outdoor infinity pool, and a world-class spa—all at their location on the river. 

Bespoke Service

The water features and seemingly ever-present greenery combine for a most peaceful setting. What really sets the hotel apart, however, is the level of attention presented to guests.

In addition to the private butler (who arranges local restaurant reservations and checks on your every need), the management and service staff all share the same caring attitude. I haven’t visited many hotels where the General Manager is present to make sure that you are seated at breakfast and who also waves you off when you take their private boat down the river for dinner. 

The food and beverage manager was equally attentive, answering questions and making suggestions. She helped us connect online with their former chef, with whom we had taken a cooking class during our previous visit. The on-site Chon Thai restaurant is outstanding, with a sumptuous breakfast (included in our room rate) and delicious lunch and dinner offerings. The breakfast menu offers a selection of Asian dishes; I particularly liked the Kaho Kai Jiew, a flat Thai omelet served on jasmine rice with pork or prawns. The delicious smashed avocado toast and eggs benedict were also yummy.

Siam Bangkok’s Prime Location on The River

We took full advantage of our spacious villa to rest and collect ourselves before starting our sightseeing.  Part of me just wanted to stay on the property and sit at the infinity pool, where staff brings sunscreen, snacks, and cold tea as a regular part of their service.

Given the usual congestion on Bangkok’s streets, the ability to travel by boat is another great benefit of staying at The Siam. We took the hotel’s boat to the Maritime Dock at dinnertime, roughly a 20-minute ride down the river. Sadly, the smaller wooden motor yacht we had enjoyed on our first visit had been retired and replaced by a larger vessel (although the new boat was equally well-appointed, with beverages available as we moved down the river to our dinner reservations). The city’s skyline at sunset provided a wonderful backdrop as we traveled past illuminated temples and grand palaces. 

From where we were dropped at the Maritime Dock, we walked to The Never Ending Summer, a recommended restaurant along the river tucked away in a restored warehouse owned by a noted architect. The night we went, the open-air setting was strangely empty of diners, but the food was tasty, with an extensive photo menu of traditional Thai offerings laminated in plastic. We didn’t know what to choose, so each of our party of four picked one item. 

A Convenient Base For Touring Bangkok’s Temples 

Our tour guide from Destination Asia greeted us at the hotel the next day. Our first stop was at the Grand Palace, a dazzling complex of golden spires, intricate murals, and Buddhist wonders. There, we visited Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, to catch a glimpse of the temple’s sacred statue. The palace’s grandeur was mesmerizing, a testament to Thailand’s royal heritage. 

Our next stop was Wat Traimit, home to the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. The sheer magnificence of the statue, weighing over five tons, is stunning. According to our tour guide, the large plaster Buddha statue had been moved to the temple from an abandoned temple in 1935. In 1955, during a ceremony to move the statue, it was accidentally dropped, cracking the plaster and revealing a gold figure hidden beneath. 

No visit is complete without a stop at Wat Pho, one of Bangkok’s oldest and largest temples.

The Reclining Buddha, an awe-inspiring figure stretching 46 meters long, commanded my attention with its serene expression and golden glow.  We walked the length of the Buddha, taking in its sheer size.

Our third morning in Bangkok began before sunrise. True to their promise of extraordinary service, the hotel’s staff brought breakfast to our villa at 6:00 am (even though the restaurant wasn’t officially open until later that morning).

Our tour guide again met us, and a driver took us down the quiet early morning city streets to participate in the Buddhist tradition of almsgiving as the sun rose. At precisely 6:30 a.m., saffron-robed monks emerged from their temples, walking barefoot to make a single line. 

The guide had thoughtfully picked up our offering, a full breakfast of curry and rice and a flower circlet. We stood respectfully, offering food and flowers and receiving blessings in return. One of the monks spoke in clear English, asking us not to stand too close. This morning ritual is how the monks receive enough food for their two daily meals. By noon, they would stop eating until the following morning.

Exploring Bangkok

We then traveled to Bangkok’s famous flower market, Pak Khlong Talad. Here, the air was damp and thick with the scent of jasmine, orchids, and roses. A mind-bending array of blossoms fills every aisle. Local people purchase flowers for offerings and weddings, and we wondered how so many flowers could be sold every day. In Bangkok, flowers are for more than decoration—they are woven into the fabric of daily life.

Since it was now only 9 am, we asked if we could conclude our morning with some shopping. While few of the shops at CentralWorld, one of the largest malls in Southeast Asia, were open yet, we grabbed a much-needed cup of coffee at the Starbucks on the first floor. A sprawling complex filled with international brands, trendy local shops, and an endless variety of dining options, CentralWorld has something for every type of shopper. We bought some fun linen outfits but looked in vain for a man’s robe.

A Delicious Dinner at Charmgang

At dinnertime, we again took The Siam’s boat to the Maritime Dock. Disembarking, we used a map provided by our butler to guide us on a short walk to Charmgang, a Michelin Bib restaurant that advertised itself as offering cozy street food—which we found to be an understatement.

Opened in 2019, the restaurant was formed by an ambitious team of three young chefs, all of whom have worked with renowned chef David Thompson at Nahm. The neon-lit Charmgang presents a retro-curry house’s interior with red reed mats and contemporary art forming an eclectic background for what they call “Thai soul food.” 

The restaurant is known for its curries (we tried the duck curry). Still, we also relished the seared scallop on crispy coconut milk cupcake appetizer, beef skewers, crispy pork belly, and other delicacies. Humorously, they posted a notice saying, “Sorry, No Pad Thai On The Menu.” 

Dessert included an incredible caramel rice bar and banana on toasted coconut ice cream. The perfect balance of tradition and creativity, paired with bold flavors, fresh ingredients, and good vibes made this small gem one of the favorites of our trip.

Our Tuk-Tuk Adventure in Bangkok

Since the Maritime Dock was closed when we emerged, we decided to take a tuk-tuk back to our hotel– a small, motorcycle-driven rickshaw with a covered seating area in the back. It is comfortable for two but in this case, there were four of us. 

What we expected to be a short, exhilarating ride turned into a wild adventure through the city’s winding streets. The driver weaved through traffic with breathtaking speed, squeezing between cars and making sharp turns that had us gripping the sides of the vehicle. The neon lights of Bangkok blurred past us, along with the sounds of honking horns. 

A few turns into the ride, the driver said the fare would be two thousand baht or about $60. Since we were splitting the fare four ways, we agreed. Halfway through the journey, the driver grinned and quoted another amount that was double what we had agreed to pay.  We said “no” in unison, and he brought us safely to The Siam, albeit somewhat frazzled by the wild ride. When we later asked Khem, our butler, what the fare should have been, he laughed and said the fare should have been 500 bhat, at the highest—we had overpaid by three times that amount. He smiled and added, “Now you have had a bad tourist experience.” Lesson learned: Always negotiate the price before you get in the vehicle. 

Having said that, our tuk-tuk ride was a true experience…and worth every penny. The next time, however, we opted for a taxi back to the hotel, at the lower cost of 400 baht.

Charmkrung: The Sister Restaurant of Charmgang

We loved Charmgang so much that we wanted to have our final dinner out at its “big sister” restaurant, Charmkrung. Part of a renowned restaurant group that includes Saneh Jaan and The Local, Charmkrung seamlessly blends traditional Thai flavors with a hipster vibe. 

They bill themselves as a wine bar with small plates, and the wine list is impressive, with an emphasis on Australian and French wines. This restaurant, too, lived up to its listing as a Bib Gourmand from the Michelin Guide.

I loved the crispy river prawns bathed in tamarind sauce and a fragrant green curry that carried just the right amount of heat. Nestled on an upper floor of a 1950s-era building on Charoenkrung Road near the Dock, the restaurant was soon full of happy diners, including ourselves, who found the small plates delightful.

An Indulgent Last Day in Bangkok

Our last day was dedicated to indulgence at The Siam’s Opium Spa. A sanctuary of tranquility, the spa offers treatments that combine ancient Thai healing practices with modern luxury. Some of our group loved the signature Muay Thai massage, a vigorous and deeply relaxing therapy. I chose the more traditional Swedish massage and enjoyed every minute. I added a manicure that left me in a state of blissful serenity. 

After our spa appointments, our last dinner was at The Siam’s restaurant, Chon Thai. The hotel staff decorated a special table in an elephant motif for us in a small semi-private room overlooking the river. The meal was as good as every other meal we had enjoyed during our stay at The Siam—which is to say “exceptional.”

A Warm Farewell

Once again, Bangkok had unfolded before me like a rich tapestry of experiences. From the warmth of the staff’s hospitality at The Siam to the spiritual grace of almsgiving, from the grandeur of temples to the vibrancy of the flower market, and even including the thrilling tuk-tuk ride, each moment told the complicated and nuanced story of Bangkok. I can’t wait to return.