A Journey On The Mekong River: From Saigon to Siem Reap
- aliwebb37
- 7 days ago
- 8 min read
In the heart of Southeast Asia, the winding Mekong River carries more than just water. It carries centuries of history and tradition of two vibrant countries: Vietnam and Cambodia. Aboard a small Avalon Waterways Saigon river ship in January, when cooler temperatures and dry skies make travel most pleasant, we explored bustling cities, ancient temples, floating villages, local culture, and global history up close.
A City in Motion: Feeling Ho Chi Minh’s Historic Pulse
Our adventure began in Ho Chi Minh City, which is still called Saigon by many locals. January is one of the best times to visit, with temperatures ranging from 70°F to 88°F (21°C to 31°C), low humidity, and clear skies—although it still seemed warm and sticky.
The hotel offers an unsurpassed breakfast buffet (and I’ve eaten breakfast on almost every continent). The sheer range and quality of the offerings spanned Vietnamese cuisine, such as Pho and Bahn Mi sandwiches, to traditional classics like omelets, pancakes, and Eggs Benedict.
Once we stepped out of the hotel’s doors, we were surrounded by scooters that swarmed like bees down the thoroughfares and around the French colonial architecture, making crossing the street an adventure. Clearly, this city of 10 million is the pounding heart of the country.
Dinner at The Monkey Gallery
We ate dinner at The Monkey Gallery, enjoying an amazing meal with impeccable service. We were glad to get a table since the restaurant has only a small dining room.
Each of the four courses was almost too beautiful to eat…until we took the first bite. Then, flavor outweighed beauty. One favorite was the Nha Trang Lobster with basil and lemon.
Exploring Vietnam’s Past
A guided city tour led us through Vietnam’s wartime history and colonial past. We paused for drinks at the rooftop bar of the Rex Hotel—once the press headquarters for U.S. military briefings known as the “Five O’Clock Follies.” A quick stop at the hotel’s Havana Cigar Club was a throwback to that era.
The War Remnants Museum offered a sobering but essential perspective on the Vietnam War and the role of the United States. Spending time on the museum’s three floors was both uncomfortable and educational, and provided graphic details about a devastating war.
Walking through one gallery that covered the effects of Agent Orange and other chemical defoliant sprays, the use of napalm and phosphorus bombs, and war atrocities such as the My Lai massacre reminded me of the importance of understanding our history, so that we don’t repeat it.
Other Culinary Stops
A happier stop took us to the Ben Thanh Market, where vendors offered everything from dragon fruit to hand-embroidered linens. The market was almost overwhelming in its diversity of goods, and most of the stall owners wanted to engage in spirited negotiations over price.
Later that day, our culinary curiosity was fulfilled with a hands-on Vietnamese cooking class. We learned to roll fresh spring rolls, grind spices for lemongrass chicken, and simmer pho broth, guided by a local chef whose grandmother had passed down these treasured recipes. We also ate our creations, including our slightly overcooked fried spring rolls.
Outside The City: Tunnel Secrets and Rooftop Views
Outside the city, we visited the Cu Chi Tunnels, a subterranean network that once sheltered Viet Cong fighters. We crawled through narrow passageways and stood in hidden bunkers, imagining life in those cramped quarters. It was equal parts fascinating and horrifying.
Returning to Ho Chi Minh City, we decided to get a drink at the Caravelle Hotel’s rooftop bar, another iconic location. The neon buzz of the city skyline paired perfectly with a cool drink and a moment of quiet reflection.
Sailing South: Embarking on the Mekong
Our all-suite ship awaited us on the banks of the Saigon River, offering a graceful escape from the city’s bustle. As we settled into our staterooms and gathered for a welcome reception, the ship slipped into the calm waters of the Mekong Delta.
We unpacked for our eight days on the cruise, eager to meet the 36 guests and almost an equal number of staff onboard the appropriately named Avalon Saigon.
Craft, Culture, and Candy in the Delta
In the morning, we found ourselves gliding through the quiet waterways of Vinh Long. We boarded sampans—flat wooden boats—to explore local workshops, where artisans demonstrated the craft of making rice paper and coconut candy. We sampled the candy treats still warm from the pan, each bite sweet with tradition.
A quick stop at a floating aquaculture business demonstrated the river’s importance in creating stable incomes for the locals.
Later that afternoon, Cu Lao Gieng Island welcomed us with its handmade sampan boats, woven conical hats, and timeworn Catholic churches. We met a family that handcrafts “non la” hats from palm leaves and bamboo. Largely unique to Vietnam, these hats are used not only as sun and rain protection, but also as baskets and water scoops.
Life Onboard
We ate almost every meal on board the boat in a small, elegant dining room. Our chef prepared both local specialties (determined by the country where we were) and other Western dishes. As with all cruises, the food and alcohol were plentiful and delicious. An onboard massage therapist was fully booked every day of the cruise, and some of our fellow passengers used the small gym daily.
A few of us gathered each day for the 6:30 am Tai Chi lesson, held on the boat’s front deck. In many ways, the staff were exceptionally accommodating, even organizing a special birthday celebration for one of our group.
Markets on the Water and Threads of Tradition
In Chau Doc, we wandered a local market where fresh fish flopped in tubs, vendors sliced mangoes with lightning speed, and aromatic herbs perfumed the air. A boat ride through the nearby backwaters gave us a glimpse of floating homes and river-based commerce, where speedboats doubled as mobile shops.
Our next stop was Long Khanh, a small village known for its textile traditions. We visited a home where a man deftly wove cotton on a wooden loom, the rhythmic clatter of his craft echoing in the still air. The clicking of the looms was a pleasant sound. The village has about 55 households engaged in shawl weaving, with more than 130 looms.
Cambodia Beckons: Phnom Penh’s Dual Nature
Gliding over the border into Cambodia, we were greeted by Phnom Penh’s mix of Khmer grandeur and French elegance.
The Khmer Empire was an ancient empire centered in what is now Cambodia. Like most of Southeast Asia, Cambodia experienced a French colonial presence that lasted until the 1950s. As we explored Phnom Penh, we saw evidence of both eras.
Disembarking, we each jumped into a Cambodian cyclo, a bicycle-powered rickshaw. With our individual cyclo drivers peddling furiously behind and above us, we traveled en masse to the Royal Palace. Weaving in and out of traffic made the mode of transportation almost as interesting an event as our tour through the palace complex.
The Royal Palace is stunning, with its golden spires and the spectacular Silver Pagoda, where the floor tiles are made of silver. The National Museum offered a stunning array of Khmer sculpture, a prelude to the ancient wonders ahead.
To understand Cambodia’s more recent history, we visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and then traveled to one of the many Killing Fields outside the city. The Killing Fields were places where Khmer Rouge Dictator Pol Pot ordered the murder of some three million Cambodian people in a politically motivated genocide of devastating proportions. It was a chilling reminder of a not too recent history.
As a cultural segue, we also visited a colonial icon, the Raffles Hotel Le Royal in Phnom Penh. The hotel, which features some of Cambodia’s best French Colonial architecture, was designed by French architect Ernest Hébrard and constructed in Phnom Penh during the 1920s.
Once the Khmer Rouge (a radical communist movement that ruled Cambodia in the late 1970s) firmly established itself within the city, the hotel ceased operating, with the regime forcing everyone affiliated with the building to leave. The hotel gained a new lease on life in 1996, when renovations began under the supervision of Raffles International Limited. Now approaching its centennial anniversary, the Raffles Hotel Le Royal remains Phnom Penh’s most prestigious hotel. The Elephant Bar was a lovely place to relax with a refreshing gin and tonic.
As in Vietnam, the Cambodian part of this trip was about more than culture and cuisine. We learned about important events of the 20th century from people who had lived through them and who refused to be defined by their history.
There was also time for celebrations. Later that evening, children from a local orphanage performed traditional music and dance on board the boat—an uplifting end to a day of contrasts.
Blessings from the Hills and Village Joys
The next day, at Wat Hanchey, we disembarked and rode to the top of a hill, where monks sprinkled us with a traditional water blessing and gave each person a handmade woven bracelet for good luck.
Back on the boat, the panoramic view of the Mekong flowing past temples and rice paddies was almost spiritual.
More stops awaited. In Angkor Ban, a rural village seemingly untouched by time, we visited a traditional Khmer home and a local school that included English classes. The children welcomed us with open curiosity, practiced their English, and we joined them in simple classroom activities, learning about their lives as they learned about ours.
Silvercraft and Ox Cart Rides
Konpong Louang was our introduction to Cambodia’s silversmith heritage. In a village workshop, artisans used age-old tools and techniques to craft ornate jewelry and religious icons from pure silver. Each piece felt like a story made tangible.
No trip to Cambodia is complete without riding an ox cart. In Kampong Tralach, we bumped along in our individual carts, passing homes, businesses, and swaying rice fields.
A local farmer welcomed us into her home, sharing her daily routine of caring for her Brahman cows. By studding out her bull, she provides a good living for her family. These glimpses into ordinary life were among the most meaningful moments of the trip.
Majestic Angkor: The Crown Jewel of Cambodia
Our final disembarkation from the boat was bittersweet, but that departure was mitigated by knowing that our last stop was at one of the wonders of the world, the temples of Angkor.
At Angkor Wat, five lotus-shaped towers pierced the morning mist. Inside, bas-relief carvings told tales of gods and battles, eternally frozen in stone. Nearby, Bayon Temple’s 200 serene faces watched silently from their stone towers.
We wandered through Ta Prohm, where banyan roots cascade over crumbling temple walls. It felt like stepping into a forgotten world. At Banteay Srei, the “citadel of women,” intricate carvings in rose-hued sandstone showed a softer side of Khmer artistry.
A stop in a village known for handmade Khmer noodles offered one last taste of rural life. We sampled the noodles, which were still warm and slick with fragrant broth. Watching this family prepare the handmade noodles and the flavorful broth made this one of our best meals, simple but delicious.
That evening, our farewell dinner with our fellow travelers was accompanied by a private —graceful movements, gleaming silk, and haunting melodies that brought ancient legends to life.
Reflections from the River
As our Avalon Waterways journey on the Mekong ended, the river’s gentle current seemed to echo all we had seen: war and peace, tradition and change, sorrow and celebration. Ultimately, it was the local people and their history that made this journey unforgettable.
For additional information on river cruises to Vietnam, Cambodia & The Mekong River, see the Avalon Waterways website.
ความคิดเห็น